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P. BEIERMEISTER'. Jr.

COLLAR.

No. 346,259. Patented July 27, 1886.

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(No Model.) 2Sheets-Sheet 2.

F. BEIERMEISTER, Jr.

COLLAR No. 346,259. Patented July 27, 1886.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OEErcE.

FREDERICK BEIERMEISTER, JR, OF TROY, NEWV YORK.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 346,259, dated July 27, 1886.

Application filed March 1, 1856. Serial No. 193,020.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FREDERICK BEIER- MEISTER, J r. a resident of the city of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull, clear, and exact description of the invention, that will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several figures therein.

My invention relates to improvements in collars; and its object is fully stated in the following specification.

My invention consists of the novel construct-ion and combination oi'parts,hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in the claim.

Figure l is a plan View showing the method of banding the top of a collar. Fig. 2 is a crosssection taken at broken line min Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a cross-section taken at line 00, Fig. 9. Fig. 4 is a cross-section taken at line 00, Fig. 10. Fig. 5 is a cross-section at line as, Fig. 11. Fig. 6 is a crosssection showing an old form of construction. Figs. 7 and 8 are cross-sections showing modifications. Fig. 9 is a plan View showing the band-plies turned down. Fig. 10 is a plan View of the outer ply of the top turned down upon the band. Fig. 11 isa View of the finished collar, showing one end turned down as in use and the other end extended.

A well-fitting turn-down collar is necessarily made of two distinct parts, one or both of which are cut at their contiguous edges upon a curved line extending longitudinally of the collar, producing when stitched together what is called a spring-curve. Collars so made will better fit the neck of the wearer than those made with the top and band parts integral with each other, as the parts spring apart and permit a neckscarf to be easily inserted between them, and the collar assumes a better shape. The part of the collar which is turned outwardly from the neck of the wearer is called the top of the collar, and the other part which supports the top is called the (No model.)

band. The parts are each made of two or more plies. The ply exposed to View in the top when turned down is called the outer ply, and the one exposed when turned up or extended the back ply, all intermediate plies being known as inner plies. The top, as shown in Fig. 1, is composed of the outer ply, 0, back ply, D, and inner plies, tand P, although theinner plies may, one or both, be omitted when desired. The outer and back plies may be one integral ply, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 4, though they are preferably separate strips stitched together at a, as the back ply may be made of cheaper material than the outer or exposed ply. The band is composed of two strips or plies, f and 9, cut with a curve upon one side, as shown, to produce the desired spring-curve. These plies are laid, wrong side out, upon the plies l and D, and stitched thereto by a run seam, S, extending along their curved edges, the lower edges of the plies P and D being preferably correspondingly curved. The bandplies are then turned down, and at the proper time their lower edges are turnedin, as shown in Fig. 5, and stitched together by a line of stitching, I). There may be more than two band-plies, as shown in Figs. 4. and 5 at in. As heretofore constructed, the edge of the outer top ply, and generally the edges of all the top plies, were included in the band, as shown in Fig. 6.

Securing the band-plies to the top plies may be for convenienee,and usuallyis,callcd banding. I band only the back ply and its contigous inner ply or plies, if any, and fold the outer ply overonto the band, as shown in Figs. 4 and 10, to overlap and conceal the band seam or fold i, whereby I am able to produce a collar with a smooth inner surface next to the neck of the wearer that will not ehafe and annoy him, and by covering the foldiprevent it from quickly wearing to present rough and jagged edges. After the outer ply is folded over I prefer to fold its edge in between the turned-down edges of the band-plies, thelatter being folded in and all stitched together by a line of stitching, I), as shown in Figs. Sand 11. The outer ply, 0, may be folded in and stitched upon the outside of the band, as shown in Fig. 7 or as shown in Fig. 8-. The plies are all additionally secured in place by theline of stitching 0. (Shown in Fig. 5.) By having part of theplies of the top part inserted between the plies of the band part and a part overlapping on the outerside and secured by aline of stitching, 0, passing through all the plies, the plies are interlocked, and the collar is greatly strengthened and will not easily rip apart or be changed in the relative position of its parts, either in use or while being laundered. The outer top ply, O, is provided with end folds, F, which overlap the band-seam when the ply is folded down, and extend in approximately straight lines transversely across or part way across the band, and being secured thereto by a line of stitching, 1-, extending longitudinally of the fold and transversely of the band. The ends of the top part are doubly secured to the band part, greatly stengthening the collar, and by having the fold straight it can be folded smooth, and will not wrinkle whenlaundered, and by having it extend transversely over the band, to inclose both band and neckscarf when in use, it tends to bind all parts together, and will present a handsome fold, G. The inner ply, t, may be of the same width as O, as shown in Figs. 3 and 9; but I prefer to make it a little narrower, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2,whereby its edge, when folded down upon the band, comes to the top of the band, to be caught by the line of stitching e, butnot far enough to require to be folded in with the edge of ply 0, which would produce a fold too thick and 1111'- gainl y. When the finished collar is laundered, its top part is folded at G to turn down, as 35 shown in Fig. 5 and at one end in Fig. 11. When collars constructed asoshown in Fig. 6 are similarly folded down, the fold being thinner and sharper than the fold G, because it starts from a point between the band-plies, in 0 stead of from the outside, the outer ply is more likely to crack. By thus lessening the 1iability to crack I am able to meet a common obi jection to turn-down collars.

7 What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The turn-down collar herein described, the

same consisting of two'parts-to wit, the band and the top, each composed of two or. more plies, the back ply or plies of the top being secured to the upper edge of the band,the outer ply or plies of the top being carried over and I past the upper inside edge of the band and secured at or near the lower edge thereof, asset forth.

In testimony whereof I havehereuntoset my hand this 25th day of February, 1886.

FREDERICK BEIERMEISTER, JR. 

